Friday, 24 August 2012

DIY: The ultimate skirt pattern

I have to admit it: This summer I am officially addicted to skirts... at least to sewing them. Mostly because I did ever own many skirts and with the whole highlow-hem aka the vokuhila skirt (love the latter name) it did hit me. With being only 152 cm  pulling off a longer skirt is not that easy without looking like a midget, so this summer's skirt trend allowed me to have some more fabric involved on my skirts.

So just in case your skirt craving is still existing (mine is definite... one more skirt to go this summer) and you want to make one pretty quick an easy, here is my way to an ultimate one. Plus you will be able to sew the whole thing in under two hours (even I did, and I love to do 100 things while sewing).
And yes, I made a vokuhila skirt, because ...uhm... I own only like two, so a third one had to come. And I loved the fabric and it was just perfect. Excuses, I know.

Note: you will have to cope with my drawings, my sewing machine was broken and gone for about 5 weeks and I wanted to at least prepare something. And yes... scanning went kind of wrong...

What we need:

fabric, should be quite light, size depending on your wanted hemline, I used 1m x 1,3 m

fabric scissors
measure tape
elastic band

Our pattern:

This is the important part... and the basis for whatever hemline or length you are planning. You mainly have to think about three measurements:
1. The perimeter of you hips divided by two (since you will create two pieces... adds up) plus at least 5 cm, so it will slip easily over them even after sewing both pieces together. When you want your skirt to be less form-fitting add some more extra centimeter.
2. Take your first measurement and add at least 10 cm, so you will be able to make at least tiny steps. When you hemline does not create that much more space as in case of the vokuhila you should probably add 15 - 20 cm per piece.
3. Now you will have to think about the length your skirt should be. In case you are going to create an asymmetrical hemline: Use the longest part as reference. It the easiest when you hold a measure tape to your waist. Add 7 cm to the measured length ( 5 cm for the tunnel at your waist, 2 cm for the seam allowance)

After marking all your spots you can connect them for your pattern. Since I wanted it quite fitting in the upper part I drew line 3 as pictured...

Putting it together:

1. Sew along the seams.

2. After using a zig-zag stitch at the edge to prevent the fabric from fraying I folded the tunnel as pictured and sewed along it, leaving a 5 cm gap for putting the elastic band in.
3. Insert the elastic in your tunnel, you can use an safety pin so you will have something to hold onto. Sew the two ends of the band together. Close the gap.

Create your hemline:

Until now you should have decided how your desired hemline is supposed to look. In case you want a straight hem: You can skip the whole process of cutting.

For the others: Put your skirt on, this way you can exactly see how the skirt falls. Use your chalk to mark the hemline, you might want an assistant so you can stand straight. Cut off all the spare fabric leaving at least 1,5 cm for seam allowance (just realized, that I said 2 cm earlier... but its better to have too much).
After hemming all the edges with your zig zag stitch you fold the hems similar than in the case of the tunnel, but smaller and sew all along your hemline, whether it is straight or different.

Tadaaa... you got another skirt. Check out larger fabric stores right now, because they normally throw out their summer fabrics just now, so you should be able to make some bargains (I paid 2,50 Euro for my fabric ...)

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